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0143 The heart of a continent : vol.1
The heart of a continent : vol.1 / Page 143 (Color Image)

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doi: 10.20676/00000247
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both kept their countenances, because the arrangement had
been between the two; but the guide's face did not move a
muscle, except to express supreme astonishment at my
audacity in even supposing such an honest boy as mine was
capable of squeezing me. I said no more to my boy. His
manner, however, has very much changed for the better, and
he is evidently trying to get into my good books again. In
the afternoon he told me a long yarn about how good and
honest his father was, and how honest he knew himself to be—
all of which I was very glad to hear, but did not offer any
remarks on the subject. These rows will happen in the best-
regulated families, but they are a nuisance. I limit them to
once a fortnight, when possible, as one cannot be always
"nagging" at the unfortunate guide. We started at 4.15, and
continued over the plain, passing several yurts and many
flocks of sheep and goats and some ponies.

June 13.—A north wind, slight rain in the morning,
and very cloudy. It cleared at eleven, and away on the
northern range was snow—quite low down, too—most delight-
ful to look at. By two it had all cleared away, except on the
highest ridge.

I suggested to the guide that we should halt for a day
when we came to a good grazing-ground, to let the camels
pick up, and then make a renewed effort; but he says that if
they were to halt for one day, they would not go on at all
the next—the only thing is to keep them at it. Rather like
the cab-horse in "Pickwick," which had to be kept in harness
for fear of it falling down!

To the north, at a distance of twenty-five miles, are the
Altai Mountains, rising to about nine thousand feet above the
sea. There was slight snow on the summit before to-day's
fall. They are entirely bare, and the southern slopes are
steep, but not precipitous. In the centre of the range is said
to be a plateau of grass land to which the wild camels resort.