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0169 The heart of a continent : vol.1
The heart of a continent : vol.1 / Page 169 (Color Image)

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doi: 10.20676/00000247
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village surrounded with orchards, the trees of which were
covered with apples.

There were so many ruined houses that it is hard to say
how many inhabited dwellings there were—probably about
twenty. The inhabitants were both Chinese and Kalmaks.
The inn was a very poor one, the rooms being low and dirty,
with no windows or doors, and only an open doorway. The
kang was very dirty and made of mud, and not even covered
with matting. The roof was composed of grass laid across
beams of wood, which let both rain and sun through.

Cloudy day and slight rain during the night of 7–8th.
Thermometer—max., 90°; min., 66°.

July 9.—Started at 2.30. A thunderstorm delayed us for
half an hour. The desert began again almost immediately
after leaving Eurh-pu, but it is not so bad as the Gobi.
There was a fair amount of grass and scrub, but it was
unfitted for cultivation. Nearer the mountains there appeared
to be villages, and, after going a few miles, we saw on the
left a small green plain, with a fair-sized village and several
streams running down towards it.

At forty li we passed the village of S'an-pu, which also
had the ruins of a barracks, and on the western side were two
tombs of Chinese military mandarins, who had died in the
war. They were not handsome tombs, but they were very
conspicuous, as they were from fifty to sixty feet high. They
were built of brick, and in good preservation. All other
buildings were made of mud. For the rest of the way we
passed over desert, occasionally passing a house on a small
stream or spring in a hollow. There is a sort of half-dead
air about this country; for every inhabited house, at least
two in ruins are to be seen. In passing through villages,
scarcely an inhabitant is met with, and in the fields no one
seems to be working. If I had come from anywhere else but
the Gobi, I should probably have found it extremely depressing.

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