National Institute of Informatics - Digital Silk Road Project
Digital Archive of Toyo Bunko Rare Books
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The heart of a continent : vol.1 |
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one house and an inn in the midst of bare hills. There was
no cultivation or pasturage. The inn was occupied by a
military mandarin from Urumchi, who had with him a number
of soldiers, so there was no room for our party. We drew
up the cart a little beyond, and the boy cooked a meal, which
I ate in the cart. These big carts are very comfortable. I
have a mattress spread out on the top of all the baggage, so
that I or the boy can lie down at any time. I sleep in the
cart at night, and the boy occupies it during the marches.
*July* 11.—We started again at 2.55 p.m., passing through
a hilly country, very bare, and covered, as usual, with gravel.
I saw two *Ovis argali* horns, but they were of small size.
Halted at 7.15 at Ché-ku-lu-chuen (fifty li)—a house and an
inn in a gorge, which we had been descending for rather over
a mile. Still no cultivation, and everything very brown and
sterile. Had tea, and slept, as usual, in the cart. The boy
would not sleep in the rooms of the inn, because the soldiers
were to return here from the last stage, and he says they
would turn him out and steal his things. They are a bad
lot, apparently. They were civil enough to me, though. They
mistook me for a Russian, but when I said I was English,
they said, "Oh! you belong to the great English nation."
Every one here speaks of the *great* English nation. Russian,
French, and English, are the only European nations they seem
to know. Dull day, but no rain ; cool.
*July* 12.—Started at 4.40 a.m., passing down the gorge
for four miles. The gorge was from fifty to one hundred yards
broad, the hills being from one hundred to one hundred and
fifty feet above it. The bottom was fine gravel, and the hills
rocky and stony. After emerging from this, we still continued
down the slope of gravel from the range, and nine miles further
on crossed a plain covered with a light clay soil, bearing plenty
of shrubs and trees, but no grass. The plain is surrounded
on all sides by hills, and, if there were a more plentiful rainfall
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