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The heart of a continent : vol.1 |
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thousand inhabitants. In the only real street are a few shops,
small, but clean, in which are sold ordinary articles of
dress and consumption. Some are kept by Chinese, and
some by Turkis. The Turkis here seem more well-to-do
than at Hami; they are better dressed, and their houses are
larger and cleaner. The women usually wear a long red gown
and trousers. They tie a bright-coloured cloth round their
head, but I have seen none of those big globe-shaped caps they
wore at Hami. Started at 1.40 p.m., leaving Pi-chan by the
north gate, and passing for two and a half miles through a very
pretty, well-cultivated country, through which ran a charming
little stream, its banks lined with graceful poplars and willows.
Numerous little irrigation ducts were carried through the fields
and straight across the road, rather to the hindrance of traffic;
but now it is a positive pleasure to hear the cart splashing
through water. There are a number of little hamlets dotted
over the plain, and many mosques, all built of mud like
everything else in the country. Many of them had piles of
Ovis argali and ibex horns on the ledges of the roofs, but I
saw no Ovis argali as fine as those which I obtained in the Gobi.
At two and a half miles from Pi-chan the delightful piece
of country came to an end abruptly, and we were on the same
dreary old gravel desert again. From a piece of rising ground
I obtained a good view of the country we had been passing
through. It was extremely pretty. The plain, some six miles
in length from east to west, and three or four from north to
south, was covered over with trees, beneath the shade of which
nestled the little Turki hamlets. About a mile to the south
of Pi-chan was a range of sandhills like that which I saw
in the Gobi, but of a darker colour and not so high. The
afternoon was terribly hot on the gravelly desert, and, after
passing over it for sixteen miles, we were glad enough to come
upon another oasis. We halted at 8.15 at Liang-ming-chang
(seventy li), a pretty village built on the steep bank of a little
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