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| 0182 |
The heart of a continent : vol.1 |
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remarkable that such a depression should occur so far inland
in the heart of a continent.
*July* 18.—Started at 5.10 p.m., passing out of the Chinese
town by the west gate and through the Turk town, after which
we turned off south, passing over a plain with a good deal of
cotton planted on it. Wheat has now nearly all been reaped.
The poppy crop is also over. At five miles we rounded the
end of a low spur running down from the Tian-shan, and
passed over a level valley covered with scrub, but uncultivated.
A tremendous wind was blowing, making our progress very slow,
so we halted at 11 p.m., at a solitary inn, sixty li from Turfan.
*July* 19.—Started at 3 a.m., still crossing the plain, gradually
approaching a line of cultivation to our left. Halted at 8.30
a.m., at Toksun. This is a small town, or rather two small
towns, both walled, each about a quarter of a mile square, and
half a mile apart. There is a small garrison here, probably
four or five hundred men. The shops are small. Here
and at Turfan grapes and melons are very plentiful. The
Turfan grapes are very good, and nearly equal to those
grown in English hothouses. They are large, very fleshy, and
full of flavour. One kind is elongated, and some of them are
one and a half to one and three-quarter inch long.
Started again at 3.40 p.m., in a southerly direction. The
cultivation lasted for a mile, and then gave place to scrub,
which three miles further ceased, and we ascended the bare
gravelly slope of a range to the south. The gravel was mixed
with sand, and loose, so the going was very heavy, and we
got along slowly. Here, as at all the difficult pieces along
the road, skeletons of horses were numerous, and we also passed
two human skeletons. At sixteen miles from Toksun, we
entered the hills, perfectly bare, as usual, and four miles further
halted at an inn on a small stream.
Weather to-day cooler; very strong westerly wind.
*July* 20.—Started at 5.30 a.m., and had a very long hard
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