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| 0186 |
The heart of a continent : vol.1 |
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running round outside the main wall, but it is now almost in
ruins. Inside the wall are some yamens, but only a few houses.
Outside, to the south, are a few shops and inns.
I had a conversation with some Tunganis who came to see
me. They said the population of the place is almost entirely
Tungani and Turks. In the mountains round are Kalmaks
and Khirgiz. These Tunganis (they called themselves Tungani
without my asking who they were) are not distinguishable in
features from an ordinary Chinaman, but they seem cleaner
and more respectable than the Chinese about here, who appear
to be the scum of the central provinces of China proper.
*July* 25.—We had to make a half-halt to-day, to dry things
which had been wetted in the river on Saturday night. I went
for a stroll round the place. Outside of the walled city there
are two streets running down to the river, which is rather more
than half a mile from the walls; the northern street has most
shops, but they are poor. Near the river were some encamp-
ments of Kalmaks. They are regular Mongols, living in yurts
and dressed as other Mongols, and wearing pigtails, the round
coloured caps with a tassel, and long coats. They are easily
distinguishable from both Chinese and Turks. I questioned
several people about the different races of this part of Turkestan,
and was told that there were three different races—the Kitai
(Chinese), Tungani, and Turks, and here at Karashar were a
few Kalmaks. The Turks do not appear to be divided into
tribes, but are called by the town they belong to. The Chinese
call them Chan-teu (turban-wearers). One Turk, with whom
I was trying to converse, took me off to a shop where there
was a man who had been on a pilgrimage to Mecca, and had
seen Lahore, Bombay, Suez, and Constantinople. He only
spoke Persian, unfortunately. It is wonderful the distances
these pilgrims travel. I could find no Hindustani-speaking
men in Karashar.
I had told the innkeeper to look out for a good pony for
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