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The heart of a continent : vol.1 |
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were, in fact, regularly in the Kirghiz preserves. The nomads
are not cultivators, as a rule, but we passed a few patches
of cultivation, and what was very remarkable was that this
cultivation was very often—generally indeed in this valley—
of poppies. On inquiry, I found that, though the Kirghiz do
not smoke opium themselves, they find poppies a most paying
crop to grow, and can sell the produce much more profitably
than that of any other crop.
On August 14, after passing through a camping-ground
called Sontash, we put up for the night at another named
Ak-chak, and on the following day crossed the Kara-kara
Pass, entered a rather bare plain sloping westward, and about
fifteen miles beyond the first pass crossed a second. We
were now in what is known as the Syrt country. There
was no particular road, but the tracks of animals leading in
many directions. We had brought a Kirghiz with us to
show us the way, but he now refused to do so, and eventually
left us stranded in the midst of a series of bare, low hills and
sterile plains, without apparently any water, or any inhabitants,
or any special road. We knew, too, that what people we
should meet had not a good reputation, and were said to rob
and murder travellers occasionally, and matters looked un-
pleasant. We pushed on, however, in the general direction
of Kashgar, and towards evening, after a very hard march,
reached an encampment of six tents. The owner of the one
we applied to was very surly, but eventually agreed to give us
accommodation for the night. As we entered the tent, I was
startled on seeing a huge, fierce-looking eagle tied by the leg just
at the door. From all appearances, it would require very little
provocation to cause it to fly at one, and I was relieved when
I found myself safely past it. It was one of the eagles which
the people of the part keep for hawking purposes, and with
these they secure even small deer. I never saw them at this
sport, but I recollect some years afterwards, on the Pamirs,
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