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Digital Archive of Toyo Bunko Rare Books
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The heart of a continent : vol.1 |
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in the employ of an Englishman, he said, "I too was once
an Englishman's servant; I was in the employment of Shaw
Sahib, and out of gratitude to him I will now let you off."
The house where Shaw had lived chiefly, I was told, had all
been pulled down by the Chinese, and official yamens built in
its place. Dalgleish's residence was a comfortable little native
house in the old city, where he used to sell his goods himself.
Here the usual trays of fruit were brought me, and after
spending the morning there talking to the numerous visitors,
I returned to the inn and prepared for a visit I was to make
to the Chinese governor of Yarkand in the afternoon. Hitherto,
since leaving Peking, I had purposely kept from visiting the
Chinese officials, partly because I had no proper interpreter,
and partly because I was travelling in such a quiet way that
the official probably would not care to return my visit in a
wretched traveller's inn. Chinese officials surround themselves
with a good deal of state when they appear in public, and it
seems to go as much against the grain with them to visit a
stray foreigner in a traveller's serai, as it would to the mayor
of an English town if he were expected to get into his full
livery and go with all civic ceremony to call upon a wandering
Chinaman putting up at the local Blue Posts. As a rule,
therefore, I merely sent my passport and my card up to the
chief official, said I had just arrived, and would leave the next
day, or whenever it was, and that I regretted I should not be
able to do myself the pleasure of calling on him. But this
governor of Yarkand showed particular civility, and sent me
several friendly messages, so I called upon him on the afternoon
after my arrival.
He received me with the usual politeness of a Chinese
official, but with more cordiality. His residence here in
Yarkand, at the very extremity of the Chinese Empire, was
of precisely the same pattern and character as those in Peking
itself, and the governor's dress was exactly similar to that of
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461
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471
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482
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