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0228 The heart of a continent : vol.1
The heart of a continent : vol.1 / Page 228 (Color Image)

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doi: 10.20676/00000247
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men I had with me had actually been captured by these
robbers and afterwards sold into slavery. It was necessary to
take every precaution, and as it is their habit to attack at
night, and cut the ropes of the tent and let it down on the
top of you, if you are unwary enough to use one, we had to
live in the open, even on the glaciers, and, however cold it
might be, sheltering ourselves behind any friendly rock we
could find, and after dark always altering the position we had
ostentatiously assumed during daylight, so that if any Kanjutis
happened to have been watching us then, we might, under
the shelter of the night, stand less risk of them finding us.

Descending from the Chiraghsaldi Pass, we followed down
the pebbly bed of a stream. But soon the stream disappeared
under the stones, nor could we find grass or bushes for fuel.
Darkness came on, and with it a snowstorm; but still we
plodded on, as under these circumstances there was no possi-
bility of encamping. Stumbling along over the heavy boulders,
we at last came across some bushes, and a little further on the
stream appeared again; grass was found on its edges, and we
encamped for the night.

On the following day we reached the Yarkand River at
Chiraghsaldi camping-ground—the furthest point reached by
Hayward on his march down the river nearly twenty years
before. The river was at this time of the year fordable, and
ran over a level pebbly bed, the width of the valley at the
bottom being three or four hundred yards. All along the
bottom were patches of jungle, and here and there stretches of
grass; but the mountain-sides were quite bare.

Proceeding down the Yarkand River, we reached, the next
day, the ruins of half a dozen huts and a smelting furnace,
on a plain called Karash-tarim. There were also signs of
furrows, as of land formerly cultivated, and it is well known
that up to a comparatively recent period, certainly within eighty
years ago, this valley of the Yarkand River was inhabited,