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Digital Archive of Toyo Bunko Rare Books
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The heart of a continent : vol.1 |
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further on I met another European. This one at any rate,
I thought, *must* be an Englishman, and I walked up to him
with all the eagerness a traveller has to meet a countryman
of his own after not seeing one for nearly seven months. But
this time it turned out the stranger was a Russian! He an-
nounced himself as M. Nicolas Notovitch, an adventurer who
had, I subsequently found, made a not very favourable repu-
tation in India. I asked M. Notovitch where he had come
from, and he replied that he had come from Kashmir. He
then asked me where I had come from. I said from
Peking. It much amused me, therefore, when on leaving he
said, in a theatrical way, "We part here, the pioneers of the
East!"
This same M. Notovitch has recently published what he
calls a new "Life of Christ," which he professes to have found
in a monastery in Ladak, after he had parted with me. No one,
however, who knows M. Notovitch's reputation, or who has the
slightest knowledge of the subject, will give any reliance what-
ever to this pretentious volume.
On the day after leaving M. Notovitch I crossed my last
pass, the Zoji-la, eleven thousand four hundred feet high. It
was perfectly easy, and then on descending the southern side
we found all the mountain-sides covered with forest. The
change from the bare hillsides on the north was very striking
and very pleasant Hitherto, from far away at their rise from
the Yarkand plains, the mountains had been barren and desti-
tute of any trace of forest. Occasionally in some favoured
sheltered spot a dwarfed tree or two might be seen, but as
a whole it was only in the valley bottoms and on cultivated
lands that any trees were met with. Now of a sudden all
was changed. We had reached the southern-facing slopes of
the outward ridge of the Himalayas, and upon these slopes
all the rains of the monsoon are expended, while none is
left to reach the parched hill slopes beyond. Consequent upon
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482
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