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Digital Archive of Toyo Bunko Rare Books
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The heart of a continent : vol.1 |
Citation Information
OCR Text
this, the mountains on the one side of the water are densely
packed with forest, and on the other are bare sun-baked rocks
only.
We passed rapidly down the beautifully wooded Sind valley,
with its meadows and pine forests, its rushing torrents and
snow-clad mountain summits, and at last reached the open
valley of Kashmir itself. Some seven or eight miles' march
through this brought us to Srinagar, that most picturesquely
situated but dirtiest of all towns, and then for the first time I
realized how very dirty I myself was, and how rough I had
become. Dressed in a Yarkand sheepskin coat and long
Yarkand boots, and with a round Tam-o'-shanter cap as the
only European article of dress about me, and with a rough
beard, and my face burnt by exposure in the desert and cut and
reddened by the cold on the glaciers, I was addressed by the
people of the place as a Yarkandi. My first care, therefore, was
to go off to one of the native shops which provide all necessaries
for Europeans, and purchase a knickerbocker suit, such as
officers wear out shooting in Kashmir, and a clean shirt, and to
have my hair cut, my beard shaved off, and to get a good wash.
When I had expended nearly two hours upon these preparations
for my plunge into civilization, I went to see Captain Ramsay,
the political agent on duty at Srinagar at the time. It was
very trying, therefore, when Captain Ramsay, almost imme-
diately after shaking hands, said, "Wouldn't you like to have
a wash?" This was the first of the many shocks I had on
returning to civilization.
But there were some pleasant surprises as well as a dis-
agreeable shock like this, and I remember the satisfaction I
felt at receiving a telegram at Srinagar, conveying to me the
congratulations of Sir Frederick Roberts upon my having suc-
cessfully accomplished the journey, and a very kind letter from
General Chapman, then Quartermaster-General in India, who
had himself been to Yarkand and Kashgar, and, knowing how
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