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0278 The heart of a continent : vol.1
The heart of a continent : vol.1 / Page 278 (Color Image)

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doi: 10.20676/00000247
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Pass. Hearing of my return to these parts, he had come to
offer his services, and I gladly accepted them, for a more
willing, cheery servant I never had. From pony-man he was
now promoted to cook. He had no experience of cooking, and
these rough hill-men are not the persons one would ordinarily
choose for cooks; but, knowing the hardships my men would
have to go through, I was determined not to have a man from
the plains of India, who might become ill or give in just when
his services were most needed. Only men accustomed to
"roughing" it could come with me now, and no one could
stand hard work better than Shukar Ali. So, although I could
not look forward to any very recherché dinners while he was
at the head of the cooking department, I knew that I should
always be sure of a dinner of some sort, and with Shukar Ali
as one of the party there would always be a volunteer for hard
work when anything specially trying had to be done.
At Leh I was the guest of Captain Ramsay, the British
Joint Commissioner, and the same officer whom I mentioned
as being Political Agent at Srinagar when I arrived there from
Peking.* He had been asked to have ponies ready for me,
and to have other necessary arrangements made for my
onward journey, and he had done everything so thoroughly
that I had little else to do but take over charge. A matter
which gave us, however, considerable anxiety was in regard
to an additional escort of twenty-five Kashmir Sepoys, who
were to be taken on as far as Shahidula. The garrison of Leh
was paraded, but it only numbered seventy-nine all told,
and was composed of miserable, decrepit old men, thin and
half-starved, who looked at me imploringly as I went down
the ranks—each one seeming to beseech me not to take him
with me, while a look of horror came over each one that I
selected. It is impossible to conceive a greater difference
than there was between the look and the spirit of the Gurkhas