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Digital Archive of Toyo Bunko Rare Books
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The heart of a continent : vol.1 |
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be brought from the villages of Turkestan, six days' march
across a pass seventeen thousand feet high. This was the only
"base" for the exploration of a mountainous region where for
two months we should not meet with inhabitants. There were
not at this time sufficient supplies for our party in Shahidula,
and the question was how to get them there. If I sent into
the villages of Turkestan for them, the Chinese might object
to this, for these villages were under Chinese authority, and
the Chinese have been known to be obstructive. On the other
hand, to carry up supplies from Leh would have been a serious
undertaking. The furthest village in the Ladak district is
one hundred and eighty miles from Shahidula, and separated
from it by three passes averaging over eighteen thousand feet
in height. As, therefore, the Chinese had been very civil to me
on my former journey, I trusted to their being so again, and
sent on a man to procure supplies from the Turkestan villages
to bring to Shahidula.
All these preparations having been made, I said good-bye
to Captain Ramsay, and on August 8 again set out. Directly
behind Leh a high pass, the Khardung, seventeen thousand
six hundred feet above the sea, has to be crossed, and as the
ascent to it from Leh is very abrupt, I experienced a bout
of mountain sickness, which depressed me greatly for the time.
When the ascent to high altitudes is gradual, one becomes
accustomed to the changed condition of the atmosphere; but
when the ascent to such a height as seventeen thousand feet
is abrupt (as in this case) most men seem to feel the change,
and a racking headache and feeling of sickness and depression
soon lets the traveller know that mountain sickness has
come over him. On this occasion I became terribly depressed.
I thought that if I was so bad as this at the very start, how
should I fare when there were three still higher passes to cross
before even Shahidula, the starting-point of my real journey,
could be reached, and when there were ten others besides to
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461
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