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The heart of a continent : vol.1 |
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to be the glacier we should have to ascend in order to reach
the Saltoro Pass, while the Oprang River could be seen to
flow down from another glacier to the south; and still another
appeared in view, coming in a south-east direction, and rising
apparently not very far from the Karakoram Pass. We were
therefore now in an ice-bound region, with glaciers in front of
us, glaciers behind us, and glaciers all round us. Heavy snow-
clouds, too, were unfortunately collecting to increase our
difficulties, and I felt that we should have a hard task to reach
the pass.
On first looking at one of these glaciers, it would appear
impossible to take the ponies up them; but the sides are
always covered with moraine, and my experience in the ex-
ploration of the Mustagh Pass in 1887 showed that, by carefully
reconnoitring ahead, it was generally possible to take the ponies
for a considerable distance, at least, up such glaciers. We,
therefore, now ascended the left side of the glacier, and halted
for the night at a point from which a full view of the pass at
the upper end of the glacier was obtained. The pass, indeed
seemed quite close, but distances in the clear atmosphere of
these high mountains are very deceptive; and though my
orderly, inexperienced in mountaineering, on first seeing the
pass, was delighted to think that we should reach its summit
on the following day, we did not actually approach it for
three days yet to come, and our adventures on the way may
perhaps be best described by extracts from my journal written
day by day on the spot.
September 14.—A very hard, trying, and unsatisfactory
day. I started off this morning full of zeal, ready to go any-
where and do anything, but finished up utterly tired out and
careless of what might happen. These glaciers are terribly
hard going, and after working the whole day we are only as
far as where I originally hoped to be last evening, and the pass
is as far off as ever. I started off early this morning before
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