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| 0299 |
The heart of a continent : vol.1 |
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a beautiful transparent green where it was broken. But it was
a hard thing to encounter on the way. We formed a plan of
carrying the loads over the débris of ice, and swimming the
ponies across a strip of water; but on exploring ahead we found
it even worse, and there was nothing for it but to go back some
distance and try another way. This we did, but were yet again
brought to a standstill by some crevasses, and here we halted
for the day.
September 15.—We went back again, and at last found
a way which led us straight up the centre of the glacier. We
got along famously, and are now encamped at the head of the
glacier, close under the pass, which we will attempt to-morrow.
It looks rather like a repetition of the Mustagh, rising like
a wall for about two thousand feet, and nothing but snow and
ice. It may, however, turn out easier upon closer acquaintance.
September 16.—To-day we made an unsuccessful attempt to
cross the Saltoro Pass. I had given orders to be called at
2 a.m., and after having some chota hazri, and making all
necessary preparations, we started at 3.30 a.m. It was snowing
hard and freezing hard, while dense clouds overhead hid the
moon, so that we had barely sufficient light to find our way.
Yesterday afternoon Shukar Ali and I had reconnoitred ahead,
and determined the general line of advance and the best
point at which to attack the pass, and we now proceeded
steadily up the névé at the head of the glacier. At first
crevasses were frequent, some visible—great staring rents in
the ice fifty or sixty feet deep—others invisible, being covered
with snow; these last were the dangerous ones, for the snow
would suddenly give way under you, and your legs would
go down a deep, dark hole. But, though this frequently
happened, we had no accidents, and the higher we climbed
the less frequent became the crevasses, though the snow became
softer, and it was heavy work trudging along and sinking knee-
deep at every step.
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