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The heart of a continent : vol.1 |
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out to each man of the escort. Shortly after ten o'clock at
night, after a rough scramble over the rocky boulders which
strewed the valley bottom, we reached our camping-ground at
Suget Jangal.
From about a mile above this a large glacier could be seen
flowing from the westward down a wide valley, at the head of
which I thought might be the Shimshal Pass. My Kirghiz
guide assured me that the Shimshal Pass did not lie there.
But guides are not infallible. On our maps the Shimshal Pass
was marked very nearly where the head of the glacier would
be ; and though I knew this was only from conjecture, for no
European had yet been anywhere near the Shimshal Pass, I
thought I would just have a look, and if I was wrong, as I
indeed proved to be, I could come back and meekly follow this
Kirghiz guide wherever he chose to take me.
I therefore left the heavy baggage under the charge of one
Gurkha and a Balti coolie, and set out for the exploration of
the glacier, with twelve ponies carrying supplies and fuel for
twelve days for my party and escort. On September 23 we
left Suget Jangal, and by midday were again on a glacier.
We had rather a rough march up the glacier that day, but
not so bad as on the way to the Saltoro Pass. The way to
attack these glaciers is evidently this : first to keep along the
side of the glacier, on the lateral moraine, close to the mountain-
side ; you here get some very fair going, though also, at times,
some nasty pieces, where great, rough, sharp boulders are
heaped one on the other, as at the mouth of a quarry.
Presently the glacier closes in on the mountain-side, and you
have then to take a favourable opportunity of plunging into
the centre of the glacier, and ascending the part of it which
is best covered with gravel moraine. Some very careful steer-
ing is here necessary to keep clear of the crevasses ; and the
ponies, and men too, often have a hard time of it, trying to
keep their legs in ascending slopes where the gravel barely
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