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The heart of a continent : vol.1 |
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that, though the whole party explored in all directions, we
could find no possible way of getting the ponies along. I
therefore decided upon encamping, and going on the morrow
with a few men lightly loaded to the pass. I had some tiffin—
rather an important point on these occasions when the time of
the real tussle has arrived, and you are feeling rather down
with things in general—and then started off to explore a route
for the men to follow; but although I went in and out every-
where along the whole front, I found it impossible to get ahead.
I then returned to camp, had a cup of good hot tea, and set
out again backwards; but it was no go. We were in a regular
cul de sac; ahead were impassable crevasses, and on each side
were the main lines of the glacier pinnacles of pure ice, still
more impracticable than the crevasses.
On September 16 we started back down the glacier, snow
still falling heavily. The Gurkha naik, Shahzad Mir, and my-
self kept looking everywhere for some way of getting off the
glacier on to the mountain-side, where it was evident we should
find a passable road. Once or twice we got right up to the
edge of the glacier, but just a few crevasses and broken crags
of ice always prevented us from actually reaching terra firma.
I was on the point of giving up, when I saw what seemed to
be a practicable route. The others stayed behind, saying it
was impossible; but I went on and on, and at last reached
the edge of the glacier, and only a pond, heaped up with blocks
of ice and frozen over, separated me from the mountain-side.
The ice was very treacherous, but, by feeling about with my
alpenstock, I got across safely; and then, going along the
mountain-side for some distance, found a very promising route,
which I followed up for some little distance.
On returning to the lake I found the naik and Shahzad Mir
had followed me, the former having got across all right, but
Shahzad Mir had gone through the ice up to his waist. The
water was far out of his depth, and he had only saved himself
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