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The heart of a continent : vol.1 |
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only the lesser glaciers are met with on the higher slopes. The
mountain-sides are perfectly bare, and only the scantiest scrub
is found in the valley bottoms.
Akal Jan, a Kirghiz who belonged to the Tagh-dum-bash
Pamir, but whom I had met at Shahidula, while we were
exploring the passes, had gone to his home on the Pamir and
collected camels and yaks, which he now of his own accord
brought to Chong Jangal. He was also the bearer of a letter
from Lieutenant Bower, who, with Major Cumberland, had
made his way on to the Tagh-dum-bash Pamir by way of
Shahidula, Kugiar, and Sarikol. In this letter was the infor-
mation that Captain Grombtchevsky, the well-known Russian
traveller, who had in the previous year found his way into
Hunza, was now travelling towards Ladak, and would probably
meet me on the way. Being anxious to see Lieutenant Bower,
I despatched an urgent message to him to try and meet me
at Tashkurgan, and set out from Chong Jangal on October
21, descending the Yarkand River towards the Tagh-dum-bash
Pamir.
We saw many signs of cultivation, and were told by the
Kirghiz that down to about forty years ago this valley was
well populated, and that even now Kirghiz from the Tagh-dum-
bash occasionally cultivate some of the ground in the side
valleys, where they are well hidden in case of Kanjuti raids.
Trees, too, are here met with, and in the Uruk valley there are
still a few apricot trees.
The ponies had now become completely knocked up, and
although the road here is good, even the unladen animals could
not keep up with the loaded camels. The camels and yaks
which Akal Jan had brought were sufficient to carry the whole
of our baggage, so I discharged the ponies and sent them back
to Ladak. Working at high altitudes among these mountains,
where the road is always difficult, and grass at the camping-
grounds very scarce, it is impossible to keep ponies going
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