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The heart of a continent : vol.1 |
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almost continuously, as I had been obliged to do, and in future
explorations of a similar kind, it would be advisable, if possible,
to arrange for changes of transport.
At the camping-ground near the junction of the Ilisu with
the Yarkand River, I received a letter from Captain Grombt-
chevsky, written in Turki, and saying that he had halted at
Khaian-aksai and was anxious to meet me. I answered, in
Persian and English, that I was very glad to have the oppor-
tunity of meeting so distinguished a traveller, and would
arrange to encamp with him the next day.
On October 23 we marched to Khaian-aksai, leaving the
valley of the Yarkand River and ascending a narrow valley
whose bottom was almost choked up with the thick growth of
willow trees. Rounding a spur, we saw ahead of us the little
Russian camp, and on riding up to it a fine-looking man dressed
in the Russian uniform came out of one of the tents and
introduced himself as Captain Grombtchevsky. He was about
thirty-six years, tall, and well built, and with a pleasant, genial
manner. He greeted me most cordially, and introduced me to
a travelling companion who was with him, Herr Conrad, a
German naturalist. We had a short talk, and he then asked
me to have dinner with him. This was a very substantial
repast of soup and stews, washed down with a plentiful supply
of vodka.
This was the first meeting of Russian and English exploring
parties upon the borderlands of India, and there was much
in each of us to interest the other. Captain Grombtchevsky
had already been to Hunza, having made a venturesome journey
across the Pamirs into that country in 1888, that is, the year
before we met. It had on the present occasion been his
intention, he informed me, to penetrate to the Punjab through
Chitral or Kafiristan, but the Amir of Afghanistan had refused
him permission to enter Afghan territory on his way there.
He had accordingly come across the Pamirs, and was now
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482
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