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The heart of a continent : vol.1 |
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hoping to enter Ladak and Kashmir, for a permission to do
which he was writing to the British Resident in Kashmir.
Captain Grombtchevsky's party consisted of seven Cossacks,
a munshi who accompanied him to Hunza in the previous year,
and one servant. He lived in a small light tent of umbrella-
like construction ; Herr Conrad, the naturalist, lived in another ;
the Cossacks lived in a very flimsy tent d'abri, with both ends
open, which must have been an uncomfortable arrangement
when the bitter winds of these high lands were in full force ;
and the servants lived in a fourth tent. Such was their little
camp. The Cossacks appeared to do all the work ; they
scoured the mountain-sides for the ponies in the morning, fed
them, and saddled and loaded them for the march ; they formed
a guard during the march, and at night Captain Grombtchevsky
always had a sentry over his tent. For all this work they
appeared to be indifferently equipped. Their wretched apology
for a tent has already been described ; their food seemed poor
and insufficient, as they lived almost entirely on mutton, and
ate even the entrails of the sheep, and seldom had any flour,
as there was only ninety pounds in camp for the whole party
for three months. The liberality of our Government, indeed,
was very apparent on this occasion, for the contrast between
the parties was remarkable. The Gurkhas had two snug little
tents, with waterproof sheets, and numdahs, and everything
that could be done to make them comfortable, and, as I had
been given a liberal allowance of money for the expenses of
the expedition, my men had as much and even more than they
wanted of mutton, flour, rice, tea, and sugar, although we had
then been travelling for seventy-one days from the last village
where supplies were obtainable, and all we had with us had
had to be brought from Chinese territory, where the rulers
might have stopped our supplies. But, although the Cossacks
did not strike me as being well cared for, they were good,
sound, hardy fellows, who looked well able to stand the rough
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471
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482
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