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The heart of a continent : vol.1 |
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and during the night, which I spent in a yurt set up for me by
Akal Jan, it snowed heavily. Yurts are generally constructed
with a large hole some two and a half feet in diameter in the
top, to allow the smoke from the fire going out. On this occa-
sion, when I woke in the morning I found the floor of the yurt
covered with snow, which, when the fire had gone out, came in
from the opening. It was now falling heavily outside, and the
whole country was covered with it, so the prospect for the
exploration of the pass was not very promising.
However, I set out with two good men, leaving the rest
of the party behind, and, marching through the snow, reached
the summit of the pass at midday. The route was perfectly
easy, so that we could ride the whole way to the summit. On
the other side, however, the road could be seen running down a
narrow gorge; and beyond this there is a pass over a secondary
range, which at this time of the year is impracticable. The
mountains here seemed to be of no great height compared
with the mountains to be seen further east. There is another
pass called the Oprang Pass, up a side valley, which leads down
a valley to the Oprang River at Shor-Bulak, thus forming an
alternative route to that by the Kurbu Pass; this road, however,
is said to be very difficult and now out of use.
Ovis poli are said to abound in this part, and Bower had
told me that he had shot six near the Khunjerab Pass; but
to-day it was snowing so heavily that nothing could be seen of
them, and I only saw a few wolves, which prey upon these Ovis
poli, and catch the old rams when their horns have become so
heavy as to retard their progress.
While descending from the pass to the small camp which
had been brought to the foot of it, the snow ceased, the wind
dropped, the sun came out, and the whole air became glistening
with shining particles. This is a very curious phenomenon.
I had at first thought that it was the sun shining on minute
particles of snow, but I soon found that no snow at all was
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