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The heart of a continent : vol.1 |
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falling, and I am quite unable to account for these glistening
particles. The Kirghiz informed me that it usually occurred
after a fall of snow, and was a presage of great cold hereafter.
The thermometer indeed went rapidly down, and at six o'clock
in the evening was five degrees below zero (Fahrenheit); but then
a wind sprang up, which immediately brought the thermometer
up to zero, and during the night it never fell below that, though
the thermometer of one's senses would have registered it very
much below zero.
There was now only one more pass to explore, and I hastened
back to get round the Mintaka Pass, for I was beginning to fear
that I might perhaps be prevented by the snow from getting
across the range into Hunza. Marching down to Akal Jan's
camp, I had the good fortune to see a herd of Ovis poli in the
distance; I managed to get fairly close to them, but not near
enough for a shot, and by the time I had reached a rock from
behind which I had hoped to bag one, I found they had
disappeared right up the mountain-side, and were only just
distinguishable through a telescope, looking down disdainfully
at me from the top of the highest crag. This stalk after the
Ovis poli showed me how much my strength had been reduced
lately, from being so long at great elevations; and, moreover,
owing to my having had no proper cook, my appetite had also
gradually fallen away, and I had become too weak for any
great exertions. But, fortunately, the Tagh-dum-bash Pamir
is so easy that one can ride everywhere.
On November 4 I rejoined the Gurkha escort at Kara-
chukur, where they had remained while I was exploring the
Khunjerab Pass. They had now been halted for ten days, and
were glad enough to get on the move again.
On the following day we marched up the Karachukur to
Mintaka Aksai, where the stream from the Mintaka Pass joins
the Karachukur, which flows from the Wakhujrui Pass, leading
over to Wakhan. A road also leads from the valley of the
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