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The heart of a continent : vol.1 |
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the rest of the Kirghiz, taking the cue from them, set upon
the unfortunate Juma and beat him.
The other two Kirghiz headmen then came and apologized
profusely to me, hoping that I was not displeased with them
also, and the next morning, when we parted, they were very
friendly and full of expressions of good-will.
On November 8 we crossed the Mintaka Pass; the ascent
for about a thousand feet is very steep, and near the top there
was a considerable amount of recently fallen snow. Snow,
indeed, was even now falling on the mountains all round
continuously, but during our passage it remained clear, and
though the snow was soft and we sank into it up to our knees,
yet the yaks carried the baggage over without much real
difficulty. The height is fourteen thousand four hundred feet,
though the mountains near it must rise to fully twenty-two
thousand feet. The descent is also steep, leading down a
rocky zigzag on to the moraine of a glacier; but, after passing
over this for about a mile and a half, all difficulties are over,
and the route descends a stream to Murkush. Here we met
Kanjuti officials, sent by the chief to await our arrival, with
twenty coolies to carry my baggage, and I was therefore able
to despatch the Kirghiz with the yaks which had brought our
baggage over the pass.
But the Kirghiz are not a race with many good qualities;
they are avaricious, grasping, and fickle, and I parted with
them without regret, or any special desire to renew my
acquaintance with them.
We were now safely on the southern side of the Indus
watershed once more, and our explorations were over, for
Colonel Lockhart's Mission, in 1886, had passed up the Hunza
valley on their way to the Kilik Pass. But this valley we
were now entering was full of interest, both as the abode of
a primitive, little-known people, and from the grandeur of its
scenery. As we marched down from Murkush, which was
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