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Digital Archive of Toyo Bunko Rare Books
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The heart of a continent : vol.1 |
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merely a camping-ground, to Misgah, the first village, we
passed through gorges with rocky precipices of stupendous
height on either side. The mountains seemed to almost rise
perfectly sheer from the bed of the river for thousands of feet,
till they culminated in snowy peaks, to view whose summit we
had to throw our heads right back in looking upwards.
As we descended the valley the air became warmer and
warmer, the marrow-freezing blasts of wind were left behind,
and the atmosphere became less and less rarefied as we left
the high altitudes of the Pamirs and came down again to
parts where cereals could be cultivated. As we breathed the
fuller air, with more life-giving properties in it, fresh strength
seemed to come into us, and the feeling of languor which the
cold and the rarefaction of the air together had produced,
slowly disappeared.
Near Misgah we were met by the Arbap, or governor, of
the upper district of Hunza, who professed himself very
friendly, and evidently intended to be so; but on the next
morning, when it came to producing men to carry our loads,
as the chief had said he would arrange to do, difficulties
immediately arose. The independent Kanjutis did not at all
like having to carry the loads, and I could quite sympathize
with them. Having to carry sixty or seventy pounds for a
dozen miles over any sort of country must be unpleasant
enough, but to have to do it over Hunza mountain-tracks
affords a very intelligible cause of complaint, and I can well
understand how galling these wild people of the Hindu Kush
must find our calls upon them to act as beasts of burden.
However, the call had to be made, whether I or they liked
it or not, and after a delay of half a day the necessary number
of men were produced.
Then arose another difficulty. The arbap, on the previous
evening, had sent me over a present of a sheep and some eggs,
and now he asked payment for them, saying he could not
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