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Digital Archive of Toyo Bunko Rare Books
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The heart of a continent : vol.1 |
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he was the most capable man I have met upon the frontier,
and one for whom I entertained a considerable respect on
account of his manly qualities; and it is to be regretted that
ignorance led him into committing his master to a course of
policy which ended in the overthrow of both. Wazir Dadu
eventually died in imprisonment in Chinese Turkestan.
Now, however, on his visit to me, he appeared in gorgeous
robes, which had been presented to Ghazan Khan, the chief
of Hunza, at the time of Colonel Lockhart's visit, in 1886. He
brought very friendly messages from Safder Ali, and said he
had been sent to accompany my party down to Gulmit, where
the chief was at present residing. This place I reached two
days later. We passed a few small, dirty villages on the
way, and the valley opened out only very slightly, stupendous
mountains rising as before on either hand.
Hearing that Safder Ali wished to receive me in state on
my arrival at Gulmit, I put on my full-dress dragoon uniform,
and the Gurkha escort also wore their full dress. We had to
cross a nasty glacier at Pasu, and I did not find spurs and
gold-laced overalls very appropriate costume for that kind of
work. Then, as we neared Gulmit, a deputation was sent
by the chief to say that I must not be frightened when I
heard guns being fired, as they were intended for a salute,
and not offensively.
Amid the booming of these guns I rode up through the
village lands towards a large tent, in which the chief was to
receive me. Thirteen guns were fired as a salute, and when
they ceased a deafening tomtoming was set up. Hundreds
of people were collected on the hillside, and in front of the
tent were ranged two long rows of these wild-looking Kanjutis,
armed with matchlocks and swords. There was no fierce look
about these men, but they had a hardy appearance which
was very striking. At the end of this double row of men
I dismounted from my pony, and advanced between the lines
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