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0342 The heart of a continent : vol.1
The heart of a continent : vol.1 / Page 342 (Color Image)

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doi: 10.20676/00000247
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to meet the chief, who came outside the tent to receive me.
I was astonished to find myself in the presence of a man
with a complexion of almost European fairness, and with
reddish hair. His features, too, were of an entirely European
cast, and, dressed in European clothes, he might anywhere have
been taken for a Greek or Italian. He was now dressed in
a magnificent brocade robe and a handsome turban, presented
by Colonel Lockhart. He had a sword and revolver fastened
round his waist, and one man with a drawn sword and another
with a repeating rifle stood behind him.

He asked after my health, and as to how I had fared during
my journey through his country, and then led me into the tent,
which was a big one presented to him by Captain Durand. At
the head of the tent was a chair covered with fine gold-
embroidered velvet cloth. This was the only chair the chief
possessed, or rather had in Gulmit, and it was evident that he
intended to sit in it himself, and let me kneel upon the ground
with the headmen of the country. I had, however, foreseen such
an eventuality, and had brought a chair with me on the march,
ahead of the baggage. So I now sidled in between Safder
Ali and his chair, and whispered to my orderly to get mine,
which, when produced, I placed alongside his, and we then sat
down together. We then carried on a short complimentary
conversation, in which I thanked him for the arrangements he
had made for my reception, and the cordiality of the welcome
he had offered me. In the tent all the principal men of the
country were kneeling in silent rows, with solemn upturned
faces, hanging upon each word that was uttered as if there was
the profoundest wisdom in it, but never moving a single muscle
of their features. The conversation was carried on through
two interpreters, and the compliments dragged themselves out
by slow degrees. At the close of the interview I again thanked
the chief, and as I left the tent the Gurkha escort, by previous
arrangement, fired three volleys in the air, a form of salute which