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The heart of a continent : vol.1 |
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while his half-brother, Mohammed Nazim, rules Hunza in his
place.
This same Mohammed Nazim was now deputed by Safder
Ali to accompany me as far as Gilgit. On the day after leaving
Gulmit we reached Baltit, the chief place in Hunza, where the
chief's palace and fort are situated. I now had to hurry through,
for winter was fast approaching, and as I was able three years
afterwards to make a stay in the country, I will describe it
more fully later on, and merely state here the opinion which I
formed, during my two weeks' journey through the country, that
"once the chief had been brought under control, there would be
little difficulty with the people, who are of a far less warlike
character than the Afghans, and would probably gladly welcome
a more settled state of affairs, in which they would not be
continually liable to be employed in petty wars got up between
rival chieftains." When, two years afterwards, Safder Ali was
forced to flee from the country, the people showed no regret;
and now, under Mohammed Nazim, a prince who understands
that the time for truculency is past, it is acknowledged by every
one who visits the country that these quondam-raiders are
become a settled and contented people.
Pushing on ahead of my escort, I passed through Nilt, to
which the next visitors were the gallant little force under
Colonel Durand, who, at the end of 1891, conquered Hunza and
Nagar. Two days from Baltit—after passing over sixty-five
miles of most execrable roads, by paths climbing high up the
mountain-sides to round cliffs or pass over rocks and boulders,
and by galleries along the face of a precipice—I reached Gilgit,
and was welcomed by Captain Durand and Lieutenant Manners-
Smith, who had a few weeks before arrived to establish a British
Political Agency there. To be once more free from anxiety,
to be among my brother officers, to sit down to a meal prepared
by some other than that most faithful of servants but worst of
all cooks, Shukar Ali, the Ladaki, and to feel that the task
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