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The heart of a continent : vol.1 |
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built at the entrance to the Tagh-dum-bash Pamir. There are
several small hamlets near it; but, being ten thousand feet
above the sea, cultivation is, of course, not very productive, and
the district can therefore support only a small population.
Above Tashkurgan is seen the wide Pamir of the Tagh-
dum-bash, down which I had ridden to this place on the previous
year, and overhanging it on the west was a rugged range of
snowy peaks, which part the waters of Asia, those on the west
flowing into the Oxus, and destined to mark the dividing-line
between spheres of influence of two great empires, and those to
the east flowing into the Yarkand River, and ending their career
in Lob Nor. Behind this range were the chief Pamirs—the Little,
the Great, and the Alichur Pamirs—which it was now our special
object to visit.
On October 3 we left Tashkurgan to ascend the gorge which
leads up to the Neza-tash Pass. The way was rough and stony,
and the last part of the ascent steep, but we took our ponies
over without any serious difficulty, and from the other side
of the pass looked down upon a succession of bare, rounded,
uninteresting spurs and barren valleys running towards the
Little Pamir. After descending one of these, we found our-
selves on what might almost be called a plain; it was flat and
level, four or five miles broad, and extended for many miles
on either hand, till the border of the mountain ranges hid it
from view. This was the Little Pamir. On the side by which
we had entered it, it was bounded by high snow-clad mountains,
but opposite us were low rounded spurs, hardly high enough
to be dignified with the name of mountains or to be covered
with permanent snow.
The other Pamirs which we visited differed but very slightly,
so that some detailed description of this one will suffice. We
have, then, a level plain bounded by ranges of mountains of
varying height on either side; and perhaps the best idea of what
this is like will be gathered from an account of how it is
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