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0357 The heart of a continent : vol.1
The heart of a continent : vol.1 / Page 357 (Color Image)

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doi: 10.20676/00000247
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long day's ride, passing by several small lakes in the hollows of
the moraines of ancient glaciers, and at night we halted just at
the point where the Alichur River enters the Yeshil-kul. Our
baggage, including our bedding and cooking things, was brought
on more slowly, and we spent the night cold and hungry in a
yurt, which had been sent on for us, but we were delighted
the next morning to find the stone. It was the broken remains
of a large tablet mounted on a pedestal, and placed about a
hundred feet or more above the river, on its right bank, a few
hundred yards before it flowed into the lake. The inscription
was in Chinese, Manchu, and Turki, and evidently referred to the
expulsion of the Khojas in 1759, and the pursuit of them by the
Chinese to the Badakhshan frontier. Above this ancient monu-
ment, on the left bank, was a ruined Chinese fort, built many
years before.

The place is of historic interest, as it is the scene of the
conflict between the Russians and the Afghans in 1892. An
account of this has been given by Lord Dunmore, who visited
the spot only a few weeks after the event, and found the dead
bodies of the Afghans lying there. The Afghans appear to
have sent a small outpost of about fifteen men to this place.
A Russian party, under Colonel Yonoff, making its annual
promenade of the Pamirs, came up to them, fired on them, and
killed every single man.

After taking a rubbing of the inscription on the monument,
which has, by the way, been since removed by the Russians
and placed in the museum at Tashkent, we rode back to
Buzilla Jai, and the following day retraced our steps up the
Alichur Pamir. I do not think there is anything special to
record about this Pamir. It is of exactly the same description
as all the rest. The principal routes leading to it are: (1) that
leading right along it from the valley of the Aksu River to
Shignan; (2) that from Sarez on the west by the Marjunai Pass,
a somewhat difficult one, which has, however, repeatedly been