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The heart of a continent : vol.1 |
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off to Kashgar on a couple of camels, and lived in it the whole
winter. With good carpets on the ground, and a stove to warm
it, it made a very comfortable place to live in, and, personally,
I preferred it to a house.
This tent I found ready pitched on my arrival in Kashgar,
and it was very delightful to feel myself comfortably settled
down again after our rough and constant travelling. It was
curious, too, to note the change from the lonely mountains to
this populous town. On the Pamirs at night all had been as
still as death, but here we felt the town beside us; the great
gongs of the Chinese guard-houses beat the hours through the
night, and at nine o'clock a gun was fired and trumpets were
blown. The Chinese are always good at effect, however bad
they may be in practice; and as, in countries like Turkestan, a
good deal may be done by effect alone, I think this noisy parade
of watchfulness must make no small impression on the people.
The deep booming of the gongs through the stillness of the
night, the blaring of the trumpets, and the noise of the cannon,
nightly remind the inhabitants of these towns of Turkestan that
the conquerors, who have returned again and again to the
country, are still among them and still on the watch.
The day following our arrival, we called on M. Petrovsky,
the Russian consul, whom I had met here, in 1887, on my way
to India from Peking. He and Madame Petrovsky, their son,
M. Lutsch the secretary, and a Cossack officer in command of
the escort, made up a very pleasant little Russian colony here
in Kashgar, and it was a comfort to think that during the
winter we should not be thrown entirely upon our own resources,
but would have the advantage of intercourse with other
Europeans.
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