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0366 The heart of a continent : vol.1
The heart of a continent : vol.1 / Page 366 (Color Image)

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doi: 10.20676/00000247
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native city, near which our house was situated. Old General
Wang was very friendly, and used to get up dinner-parties
for us in his barracks, and insisted upon calling me by my
Christian name. Like all Chinese military officials, he was
very indifferently educated, and having learnt the art of writing
long scrolls with quotations from classics, he was very proud
of it. The barracks in which his men lived were really ex-
tremely comfortable. Chinamen—at any rate the inhabitants
of North China—seldom live in squalor, and these barracks
were well constructed, roomy, and comfortable. The officers'
houses were really very neat. The only things that were
badly looked after were the arms. The Chinese never can
look after their guns and rifles properly; and although there
were many good breech-loading rifles in the hands of these
men, they would probably be perfectly useless on account of
the rust. I think what chiefly struck me about the arrange-
ments of these barracks was the family-party air which per-
vaded the whole. Here was the comfortable old general, only
bent on taking things as easily as possible, and the officers and
men appeared to be merely there to attend to his wants. They
had to look after him a little, and hang about him generally;
but they might be quite sure that he would not trouble them
with any excess of military zeal, and they might go on leading
a quiet, peaceful existence till their turn for command came
round. The men worked hard at their vegetable gardens
outside the barracks, and we had opportunities of testing the
excellent quality of the vegetables which they turned out;
but drill and rifle-practice were very seldom carried on. As
far as our personal comfort was concerned, this was lucky, for
one day when rifle-practice was going on, I had just turned
the corner of a wall when a bullet came whizzing close by my
head; the troops were at rifle-practice, and firing right across
a public way, without taking any precaution to warn people.
But my intercourse at Kashgar was not only with the