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The heart of a continent : vol.1 |
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halting here for a day to collect supplies, I left on August 5,
and marched up the Tagh-dum-bash Pamir, intending to pro-
ceed to Gilgit by the Baroghil or some other pass leading into
Chitral territory. A considerable amount of rain fell at this
time of year, and places which two years before I had seen
dried up and parched by the November frosts, were now fresh
with the summer green, and grass was plentiful.
All this time reports kept coming in that a small Russian
force had entered the Pamirs, and proclaimed them Russian
territory, and at the head of the Tagh-dum-bash Pamir I found
several families of Kirghiz who had fled before the Russians. I
crossed the Wakhijrui Pass, fifteen thousand six hundred feet,
an easy pass, with a small lake on the summit, and the surface
of the ground carpeted with gentians, edelweis, and yellow
poppies. I then descended into the basin of the River Oxus,
and passed along the Pamir-i-Wakhan, uninhabited at this
season, but tenanted in the winter by Wakhis, to Bozai-Gumbaz,
which I reached on August 10. So much has since been
written about this place, that people might easily imagine it
to be a town or large village, whereas the only building on the
spot is the tomb of a murdered Kirghiz chieftain, and the only
inhabitants occasional nomadic Wakhis. Here I found a party
of ten Cossacks encamped. They formed a guard over the stores
which had been left here by the main party of Russians, which
had gone on to reconnoitre in the direction of the Baroghil
Pass. There was no officer with this party of Cossacks at
Bozai-Gumbaz, so I halted here till the officers returned, as I
was anxious to meet them. Among the Cossacks of this party
I recognized one who had been with Captain Grombtchevsky in
1889, and was able to show him a photograph of our combined
parties which the Russian officer had taken, and of which he
had sent me a copy from St. Petersburg, together with a very
kind invitation to visit him in Margillan.
On August 13 the reconnoitring party returned. As I
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