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The heart of a continent : vol.1 |
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Government, and thirteen days after the incident had occurred,
far away on the Pamirs though it was, the British Ambassador
at St. Petersburg had made a protest to the Russian Govern-
ment, the upshot of which was that the Russian Ambassador
in London apologized to Lord Salisbury for the illegal action
of Colonel Yonoff, and the Russian Government has now
declared, in the Pamir Agreement, that Bozai-Gumbaz, the
place which Colonel Yonoff had stated to be Russian territory,
is beyond the sphere of Russian influence.
Meanwhile I recrossed the Wakhijrui Pass, and encamped
for some weeks on the far side of it, at the mouth of the
Kukturuk valley. This is immediately opposite the Kilik Pass
into Hunza, and as these people of Hunza were showing signs
of hostility to us, which a few months later resulted in the
sending of an expedition against them; and as, moreover, they
committed a raid on a Kirghiz encampment only ten miles
below the spot where I was myself encamped, I had to take
turns with my Pathan servants to keep watch during the
night, till an escort under Lieutenant J. M. Stewart arrived
from Gilgit for my protection. For six weeks I remained at
this place, situated over fifteen thousand feet above sea-level.
Even at the end of August there were sharp frosts at night,
and the water in my basin would be coated over with ice in
the morning, and by the end of September the thermometer
went down to zero Fahrenheit. The patches of grass, so green
and fresh in the summer months, now died down and withered,
and the hills and valleys became bare and bleak as the winter
cold closed on them. The mountains in that part were mostly
rounded and uninteresting—ugly heaps of rock and earth,
with no trace of beauty to attract attention, and life in Kukturuk
was in the highest degree monotonous till Lieutenant Stewart
arrived.
At last, on October 4, Lieutenant Davison rejoined me.
He had been treated in an even more cavalier manner by the
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