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0396 The heart of a continent : vol.1
The heart of a continent : vol.1 / Page 396 (Color Image)

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doi: 10.20676/00000247
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So I used to say that I was going by a pass to the right of
such and such a pass, the latter being some well-known one.
For a long time the men replied, one after another, that no
such pass existed, but at last one man said that it was a very
difficult one. Then I had the clue that there really was one,
and matters after that were comparatively simple.

Two days after passing Bozai-Gumbaz, we reached the foot
of the long-sought-for pass. But it was snowing hard, and had
been snowing equally hard for some days. Lieutenant Stewart,
who had preceded me by a few days, had crossed the Khora
Bhort Pass with difficulty, according to our Wakhi guides. We
were now well into October, and this heavy fall of snow had
closed the pass for the year. I told the Wakhis that the
weather would certainly clear on the morrow, and then we
should find no difficulty, for I had crossed many passes before
and knew how to tackle them. But when we rose at five the
next morning it was snowing harder than ever, and the
Wakhis said it was quite impracticable. I told them, however,
that I wanted them to come with me to show me how im-
practicable it was, and then we started off, Davison and I riding
yaks, and two Wakhis on foot. How thankful we in England
ought to feel that the Oriental does not come raging round
our country and insist upon turning us out to climb mountains
in the depth of winter, and in the middle of snowstorms, while
he rides comfortably along by our sides and tells us that there
is no difficulty! The patient, submissive Wakhi consents to
do this without a murmur—that is to say, without a murmur
worth recording in these pages. And the result was that we
were able to cross the pass successfully and without any serious
inconvenience.

After ascending a rocky valley for three miles, we suddenly
came on a glacier, up which we had to climb for about seven
miles to the summit of the pass. The snowfall was so heavy,
that when we were once on this glacier we could not see a trace