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| 0411 |
The heart of a continent : vol.1 |
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under Dr. Robertson, left Gilgit. It consisted, besides Dr.
Robertson, of Lieutenant Gordon and myself, and we had with
us an escort of fifty Sikhs. To reach Chitral we had to cross
the Shandur Pass, twelve thousand four hundred feet high, and
it was now midwinter. Even near Gilgit snow fell frequently,
and on the whole march of two hundred and twenty miles to
Chitral it was only in very few places that the snow was not
lying deep. At Ghiza, the last village at which we halted
before crossing the pass, twenty-four miles from it, and situated
at an elevation of ten thousand feet above sea-level, the ther-
mometer was below zero, and the whole country, of course, deep
in snow. Through this snow we made our way to the camping-
ground of Langar, at the foot of the pass, where we spent
the night before crossing it, the Sikh escort in some rough
shelters which had been erected for them, and the officers in
tents. We were fortunate in only having one or two frost-bites
in our party, and these Bruce at once tackled, rubbing the men's
feet till they said they would much rather have the frost-bite
than the rubbing. A lanky Indian cook of mine, who had never
seen snow in his life before coming to this frontier, was the
worst, and implored Bruce and me to let go of him, as we rubbed
the skin off his feet. We were fortunate in having a cloudy
night, and it was consequently less cold than it would have
been had the sky been clear; and the following day we plodded
through the snow over the pass and down to Laspur, the first
village on the Chitral side. Here we were met by the governor
of the district and a number of notables, and two days later we
reached the fort of Mastuj, where a year later I had to spend
a dreary winter. Here we made our first halt, and even here
the thermometer fell to three degrees below zero, and a bitter
wind blew down the valley, which, like the valleys we had
passed along the whole way from Gilgit, was narrow and
hemmed in by lofty rocky mountains, now covered with snow,
but generally bare and desolate looking. On January 25 we
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