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| 0434 |
The heart of a continent : vol.1 |
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him at once, in January, when he first invaded the country,
instead of months later, in April? With all their organization
and rapid means of communication, their telegraphs, railways,
and roads, Government, as the Chitralis think, ought to be
more, not less, prompt in decision and rapid in action than
themselves; and it is not to be wondered at, therefore, that
they fret and chafe under the indecisive answers which British
officers often have to give them, and that they sometimes
go running off with the bit between their teeth.
Fuller knowledge modified my first impression of the
character of the Chitralis. On first entering the country in
the depth of winter, and when the people were panting after
the recent struggles for the Mehtarship, I found them, as I
have already stated, anything but attractive. They then had
a gloomy, depressed appearance, which repelled one from
them, and it was not till the spring and summer came on
that they showed any brightness at all. But I saw them at
their best, and, as I believe, in their natural state, in the autumn
of 1893, when I went for a tour through the country with
the Mehtar. I then took no escort with me, and travelled
with him more as a private guest than as a Government official.
We rode along together the whole of each march, which, with
halts for hawking, occupied the entire day, and in the evenings,
after I had had my dinner, the Mehtar would come to my
tent and talk sometimes till midnight. The Mehtar was
accompanied by a large number of followers, and was met at
each village by every man in it; in the country, moreover,
much of the formality and etiquette of the capital wore off,
and I was able to see the ruler and his people in their natural
life.
The Mehtar was on this occasion in the very best of spirits.
No man could more thoroughly enjoy himself than Nizam-ul-
Mulk. He had little courage or strength of character, but
he at any rate knew how to enjoy life, and I picture him now
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