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| 0075 |
Report of a Mission to Yarkund in 1873 : vol.1 |
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and Arghú 400. On the plain to the east—Beshkirim 800 houses, Daulat Bágh 600,
Yangabad 600, and Fyzábád 600. On the plain to the south—Kizil 800 houses, Khánarik
800, and Tázghún 500. And all other lesser settlements 1,500. Total 16,000 houses.
The general character of the country is level plain quite up to the foot of the hills, where
it becomes broken by low ridges of clay and conglomerate. The soil is mostly sandy and
charged with salts, but it is said to be more productive than that of the other divisions already
described. It is watered by several streams from the hills to the north, and from springs at the
foot of those to the west. They are the Tirikti or Súghún river on the banks of which are
Kirghiz pasture grounds; the Artosh river on which is the populous settlement of that name;
the Túman river on which stands Káshghar city with the settlements of Sarman, Beshkirim,
and Daulat Bágh; the Kizil river on which are the market town of Fyzábád, the southern
suburbs of the city, and the Mushi settlement; the Yamányár, and its great canal of Khánarik
with their settlements; and the Tázghún, and its canals, and their settlements. Those to the
north of the city unite to form the Artosh river, and those to the south to form the Fyzábád
river; and the two unite near Kol Táylák to form the Káshghar river.
Káshghar is the present capital of the country, the seat of its government, and the most
active centre of its trade, which is exclusively with Russia by the caravan route to Almáti. It
consists of the Kuhna Shahr, or "Old City," on the right bank of the Túman river, and Yángi-
shahr, or "New City," on the plain five miles to the south of it. Between the two flows the
Kizil river on which are several fortified barracks, and small farms, with the conspicuous shrines
of Sayyid Jaláluddin Bughdádí and Hazrat Padsháh, and the ruins of Aski Shahr or the
"Ancient City;" and the communication is by a wood bridge across the river.
Kuhna Shahr is a small fortified city on high ground overlooking the river. Its walls are
lofty and supported by buttress bastions with loopholed turrets at intervals. The glacis is
protected by a covered way, and the whole is surrounded by a deep ditch, which is crossed by
a timber bridge leading to each of the two gates, viz., the "Kúm Darwáza or "Sand Gate"
on the south, and the Sú Darwáza or "Water Gate" on the north. The fortifications are all
of hard clay, and much out of repair. The eastern quarter of the city is occupied by the
palace of the Dádkhwáh or "Governor," and near it is a substantial new built saráe; and the
main line of bazar passes between the two from one gate to the other. The city covers about
half the area of Yárkand, and may contain probably 2,500 houses, if as many. But its shops
are better stocked with merchandise, and there is altogether an air of brisker activity in the
place. The people too are physically far superior, and one is only reminded of goitre by an
occasional bulbous throat here and there in the crowd. Their general appearance too is far
more prosperous, and, though the strange diversity and blending of race types is as noticeable
here as at Yárkand, a more pleasing feature in the contrast are the fair complexions, rosy
cheeks, and look of robust health that pervade the crowd, in place of the sallow complexion and
sickly looks of the citizens of the older capital.
This city, as has been mentioned in the history, was built in 1513 A.D. by Mirzé
Abákakar when he destroyed the ancient capital or Aski Shahr on the approach of Sultán
Sa'íd's invading army. In its interior arrangement and general appearance of the houses and
bazars it no way differs from Yárkand. The gates however are double, and the outer one to
the south is plated with sheet iron studded with boss headed nails. Between the two at each
side is a small row of barracks and gun-sheds for the guards of Tungáni troops; about thirty
men at each gate.
About two miles to the north of the city, beyond the Túman river which is crossed by
bridge, is the shrine of Hazrat Afák, the Saint King of the country who died and was buried
here in 1693 A.D. It is a well kept and handsome mausoleum faced with blue and white
glazed tiles, and stands under the peaceful shade of some magnificent silver poplars called tárik.
About it are a commodious college, and mosque, and monastery. These have all been recently
built by the Amír, and are the most substantial and superior structures in the country. The
whole stand on their own rent-free grounds and are surrounded by rich orchards, fruit gardens,
and vineyards. Beyond these again, down to the river in the direction of the city, is a vast
cemetery of neatly kept tombs. Many of them are covered with dome vaulted chambers open
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