国立情報学研究所 - ディジタル・シルクロード・プロジェクト
『東洋文庫所蔵』貴重書デジタルアーカイブ

Chadyrkul; another authority referred the name more particularly to the plains at the head
of the Aksai River. The Kirghiz living in the districts we had passed through seemed to be
entirely ignorant of the name, and did not recognize it; but after my return, on asking the
Hákim of Kalti Ailák the whereabouts of the Syrt, he immediately replied that I had just
come from it, and that the name was applicable to the whole district between Artysh and Ush
Túrfán; on his evidence I think the name may remain on our maps where it is. The country
can, however, by no means be considered as a high table-land rising immediately above the plains
of Turkestan; it should rather be represented as a series of parallel mountain ranges, running, as
a rule, from west to east, each one decreasing gradually in height, from the main ridge on the
north to the lowest on the south; each subsidiary range also decreasing in height as it goes
eastward. Between these ranges and running parallel to them, are extensive level plains, very
little higher than the plateau of Eastern Turkestan, but gradually rising towards the north and
sloping down towards the east. Thus the Túghamatí Plain, about 45 miles north of Kashghár,
is about 2,000 feet higher; while the Jai Túpa plain, the same distance east of Túghamatí, is
only 1,000 feet higher than Káshghar. The combined effect is to give a general slope to the
south-east.

These large plains have in most cases much grass and fuel, though but little water. From the
Sogón eastward we came across no flowing stream. What water is derived from the very moderate
annual snowfall seems to percolate into the earth, moistening it generally, and issuing in
various places in the form of springs, near which are usually to be found Kirghiz encampments.
In the Tigarek plain, at the foot of the Belowti Pass, there are, I believe, no springs; and
although there is good grass, the only time of the year in which the plain can be tenanted by
the Kirghiz, is that at which we happened to visit it, the sole substitute for water for them-
selves and flocks being the actual snow, which was then lying on the ground. In the Jai Túpa
valley there are water-courses running from north and east, but the supply of water is so
precarious that the Kirghiz told me that it was only after years in which there was a more
than average snowfall, that they attempted any cultivation at all, and under the most favor-
able circumstances the extent is extremely limited. There appeared to be no outlet through the
hills surrounding this valley, in the lower portion of which lies the forest before alluded to.
The moisture in the soil would seem to be sufficient to nourish these stunted trees. Much
of the ground in the plain is covered with saline efflorescence, and from near Jai Túpa itself large
quantities of crystallized salt are collected and despatched to Káshghar.

The Kirghiz who inhabited the country in the time of the Chinese appear to have led
a more jovial life than at present. Under no master, they used regularly to levy black-mail
from passing travellers and merchants at every camping ground; and as prompt payment
always ensured a safe passage, there was seldom much difficulty in collecting their dues.
Under the strict rule of the Amír they are now disarmed, and are comparatively poor, as they
dare not venture on any of their old tricks. A single sepoy of the King's, selected from
among themselves, is stationed in each encampment, and is responsible for the good conduct
of its members; an annual present of a choga, a certain amount of grain, and remission of
taxes is the remuneration he receives from the State. The Kirghiz pay as taxes annually one
sheep in 40, one sheep for every two camels, and one-tenth of the agricultural produce (when
there is any). In these parts horses or ponies are scarce. Nature aids the inhabitants in their
poverty by a plentiful supply of a plant called locally kuruk or teric, a kind of millet which
grows wild and from which they make a preparation called "talkan" corresponding to the
Ladákhi sattoo, which they eat uncooked moistened with a little water. I tried some, and
found it to be not unlike Scotch oatmeal, and, as it may be had for the picking it may be looked
upon as a bountiful gift of Providence to these otherwise poverty stricken people.

Our march from Kyr Bulák to Kalti Ailák was for a great part of the way down the
Sogón River. A kárawul, garrisoned by a few sepoys is situated where the river enters the
hills south of the Ayok Sogón plain. The valley occasionally widens out into small grassy
flats. After a time, the river is left (it goes off in a south-east direction and is, as before
explained, soon swallowed up by the thirsty gravelly soil) and the road traverses some very
bleak and desolate broken ground without a scrap of vegetation or sign of life. After passing
through these hills and then over a few miles of flat stony desert we reached Kalti Ailák.