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On Ancient Central-Asian Tracks : vol.1 |
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exceptionally hardy ponies as Colonel Yagello's orders
secured for me at the few Kirghiz camps encountered. There
was, however, abundant reward in the mass of interesting
geographical observations to be gathered and in the splen-
did views which it offered into a region little explored and
in parts still inadequately surveyed.
As far as the Tanimaz river, a large tributary of the
Murghab rising on the Great Pamir, our route led past a
grand glacier-clad range which forms as it were the north-
western buttress of the Pamirs (Fig. 128). It is known to the
Kirghiz vaguely as Sel-tagh or Muz-tagh, 'the Ice Moun-
tain'. Rarely have my eyes in the Himalaya, Hindukush or
K'un-lun beheld a sight more imposing than the huge
glacier-furrowed wall of the Muz-tagh as it rose before me
with magnificent abruptness above the wide torrent-bed of
the Muk-su, after I had crossed the Trans-Alai by the Tars-
agar, our first pass from Daraut-kurghan. Its boldly serrated
crest-line seemed to rise well above 21,000 feet, and in-
dividual ice-clad peaks to reach a great height above it.
No approximately exact elevations had up to that time
been determined with the theodolite or clinometer for this
and some other prominent ranges towering above the west-
ern portion of the Pamirs and the valleys draining them
into the Oxus. Neither Afrazgul nor I myself could help
feeling regret again and again at the obvious considerations
which precluded any attempt at survey work on Russian
ground, however modest in scope. But even without this it
appeared to me that the height reached by the main sum-
mit of the Muz-tagh massif was distinctly greater than that
of Mount Kaufmann on the Trans-Alai. It was hence a dis-
tinct satisfaction to me when I learned that a Russo-German
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571
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