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| 0507 |
On Ancient Central-Asian Tracks : vol.1 |
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expedition, led by that well-known geographer and traveller,
Dr. R. Rickmers, had in 1929 chosen this grand alpine area
for the scene of their systematic explorations and deter-
mined the height of Muz-tagh as exceeding that of Mount
Kaufmann.
The direct route past the Muz-tagh massif would have
led up the Muk-su and thence on to the valley by which
the Zulum-art and Takhta-koram passes, giving access to
the drainage areas of the Great Kara-kul lake and the
Tanimaz river, are approached. But the floods fed by the
huge Sel-dara or Fedchenko glacier, as it has been named
after the Russian explorer who first saw it, completely close
this route from springtime until the late autumn. So we
were obliged to make our way over a pass, about 15,100 feet
high, at the head of the Kayindi gorge. Ancient moraines
completely blocked the latter in places and made the ascent
very troublesome.
Beyond the Kayindi the ground assumed an easier Pamir-
like character and on descending over a plateau an exten-
sive panorama opened towards the Sel-dara and the valleys
draining into it. Then we crossed the Takhta-koram pass
at an elevation of over 15,000 feet after an easy ascent past
some beautiful tarns of intense green. The necessity of secur-
ing fresh transport and a fresh guide for our further move now
obliged me to seek contact with Kökan Beg (Fig. 137), the
Ming-bashi or headman of the Kirghiz who graze eastwards
about the Great Kara-hul lake. So next day, August 8, we
crossed the Kizil-bel saddle to this summer encampment
close on 14,000 feet above sea-level and were heartily wel-
comed by this fine old man. Decked with Imperial decora-
tions and a gorgeous silver belt, he looked quite imposing.
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