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On Ancient Central-Asian Tracks : vol.1 |
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from the slopes of the spur flanking the valley on the west.
They rose in wild confusion up to 200 feet or more above
what had been the once cultivated plain of Palez. Progress
for two miles was here very difficult, and I was heartily glad
when by the evening of August 12 we reached the few
scattered homesteads of Pasor, occupied by Tajik herdsmen
and ensconced among luxuriant poplars and willows.
Next day a march along steep cliffs overhanging the river
or else over high plateaux brought us to where the Tanimaz
joins what had been once the bed of the Murghab, now
practically dry. Above it, in the picturesque village of
Saunab, the Tash-kurghan or 'Stone Tower' of the Kirghiz,
we found ourselves at the highest settlement of those Iranian-
speaking hillmen or Ghalchas who inhabit the secluded
alpine tract of Roshan (Fig. 131). They were tall, well-built
men, many quite European in looks. Their fair hair, blue or
steel-grey eyes and flowing beards distinguished them at a
glance from their nomadic Kirghiz neighbours. These hill-
men of Roshan, along with those of the valleys of Wakhan
and Shughnan to the south, represent the racial type of
Homo Alpinus in remarkable purity, as found also in parts of
Europe. So there was ample work for me during a day's halt
in collecting anthropometrical records and in noting much
that alpine seclusion had allowed here to survive in customs,
domestic architecture, simple decorative wood-carving and
the like. It was delightful, too, to see once more well-tilled
patches of wheat fields and groves of fruit trees, the first
met since leaving the Kashgar countryside.
Here we secured a band of load-carrying men indispens-
able for our further progress. The only route open to us
for reaching the southern Pamirs led up the defiles through
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