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0521 On Ancient Central-Asian Tracks : vol.1
中央アジア踏査記 : vol.1
On Ancient Central-Asian Tracks : vol.1 / 521 ページ(カラー画像)

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doi: 10.20676/00000214
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fresh supplies, we moved south to cross the high chain
dividing the Alichur from the Great Pamir. On August
26 we crossed it by the Bash-gumbaz pass, which in spite
of its elevation of about 16,300 feet was found clear of
snow. As we descended towards the glittering expanse of
Lake Victoria or Zor-köl, where the Great Pamir branch
of the Oxus rises and the Pamir borders of Russia and
Afghanistan meet, a grand panoramic view opened across
it towards the glacier-crowned range which divides the
Great Pamir from uppermost Wakhan.

Ever since my youth I had longed to see the truly 'Great'
Pamir and its fine lake, of which Captain John Wood, its
modern discoverer in 1838, had given so graphic a descrip-
tion. This desire was greatly increased when the closer know-
ledge since gained of the topography of the Pamir region
had confirmed my belief that the memories of those great
old travellers, Hsüan-tsang and Marco Polo, were associated
with the route leading past the lake.

The day of halt, August 27, spent by the sunny lake shore
(Fig. 134) was most enjoyable, though with an icy wind
sweeping along the lake shore at an elevation of nearly
14,000 feet it felt bitterly cold even while the sun was shin-
ing from a speckless sky. In the morning the thermometer
showed a minimum temperature of 12° Fahrenheit below
freezing-point. In the peace around, undisturbed by any
sign of human activity past or present, it was easy to lose
all count of time and to feel as if spiritual emanations of
those cherished old patrons of my travels were still clinging
to the scene.

As I looked across the deep blue waters of the lake to
where in the east they seemed to fade away on the horizon,
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