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0551 On Ancient Central-Asian Tracks : vol.1
中央アジア踏査記 : vol.1
On Ancient Central-Asian Tracks : vol.1 / 551 ページ(カラー画像)

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doi: 10.20676/00000214
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the highest village in Khingab. The first cultivation was
passed at an elevation of about 9500 feet and traces of
abandoned fields already three miles higher up. I knew
that the considerable Garmo stream we had to ford is fed
by the glaciers which clad the western face of the great Muz-
tagh massif (Fig. 128) which had so much impressed me when
approaching it early in August from the north. There was
no time available now for getting within sight of it. Instead,
I had to descend the main valley of Wakhia-bala by two
marches in order to gain access to Kara-tegin in time before
early snowfall might block the last high pass remaining to
be crossed.

These marches led us past a succession of picturesque
villages all ensconced among orchards and arbours. But the
effects of maladministration as carried on from Bukhara
manifested themselves only too clearly in much good land
remaining untilled and in other signs also. The gorgeous
silk robes usually combining all the colours of the rainbow
in which the headmen even of small places paraded to greet
me could scarcely deceive as a mark of prosperity. For I
learned soon that the presentation of these 'Khillats' was a
traditional method of exaction starting from the Amir's
court. Favourites of the ruler or else officials whose salaries
were overdue would be sent from Bukhara to carry such
robes of honour to governors of provinces as tokens of
the ruler's special satisfaction. Custom required the person
bringing them on behalf of the Amir to be richly rewarded
in silver by the recipient. Then the governor would reim-
burse himself by passing on these precious gifts through his
unpaid subordinates to the Amlakdars or heads of sub-
divisions, and so in turn, until in the end all this display