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0558 On Ancient Central-Asian Tracks : vol.1
中央アジア踏査記 : vol.1
On Ancient Central-Asian Tracks : vol.1 / 558 ページ(カラー画像)

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doi: 10.20676/00000214
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past the old 'Iron Gate' to Samarkand and Bukhara, those
centres of Sogdiana all through history. But in order to
shorten the journey and see something of the mountains
which separate Hissar from the arid steppes of Bukhara I
chose the track leading north-westwards past Tash-kurghan
to Shahr-i-sabz. It led first through narrow cañon-like
gorges and higher up past picturesque forest-clad mountain
slopes up to the Karkhush pass already under snow. Beyond
it we descended over down-like plateaux, with rich grazing
much frequented by nomadic Özbegs, down into the wide
and abundantly irrigated valley which drains towards
Karchi. There I reached the large town of Shahr-i-sabz
by October 20, and on the following day a long and dusty
drive on a jolting Russian tarantass carried me across
the Takhta-karacha pass and the wide Zarafshan valley
to Samarkand.

In this great busy city I felt that my long journey on
ancient Central-Asian tracks has reached an appropriate
terminus. There were the huge debris-mounds of Afrasiab
to be visited to the east of the present city, marking the site
of the ancient capital of Sogdiana, the Marakanda of Alex-
ander's historians and well known to the Chinese records.
Nearer still were to be seen the noble monuments with
which the Emperor Timur had adorned this centre of
mediaeval Mughal greatness. But the Russian part of
Samarkand appeared to have grown greatly since my first
visit fifteen years before and looked even more than before
like a town of Eastern Europe.

There was much in the streets of the Russian town to
call to mind the sad fact of the great struggle shaking the
foundations of modern Europe. There were signs also