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| 0137 |
Sand-Buried Ruins of Khotan : vol.1 |
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originally caused its formation. Above it only a mass of
cloud indicated the high range which closes the valley to the
North-East. The bleakness of the hills which rise on the
West to a height of about four or five thousand feet above
the lake and the low mounds of old moraines stretching along
the shore, under the grey sky gave a desolate, sombre look
to the little lake. As the glaciers of Muztagh-Ata kept
wholly invisible, this impression was not relieved by the
grandeur of the more distant surroundings. Mournful, too,
looked the still smaller Basikkul basins and wild the confusion
of ice-ground mounds of rock and detritus which ancient
moraines have left in the narrow space between them. It
was evident that the icy splendour of the great range east-
wards is required to give to this group of little lakes its true
Alpine beauty.
I returned by the East shore of Karakul, past the little bay
where Dr. Sven Hedin's camp had been pitched. Considering
how long he stopped in the neighbourhood, and how closely
acquainted he became with the Kirghiz then encamped there,
I was surprised how little my guides could tell me of this
distinguished visitor. But the nomadic ways of the Kirghiz
fully explain this scant recollection. The families then
grazing around Muztagh-Ata have wandered elsewhere.
Togdasin Beg, Dr. Hedin's friend, has since died far
away on the Russian Pamir, and the other companions of
his excursions in these mountains seem also to have scattered
to other grazing-grounds. It was instructive evidence how
little local tradition can be expected among the wandering
tribes that frequent these valleys. The path back to camp
took me along the cliffs which run down into the lake from
Kara-kir ("Black Ridge"), a bleak height of dark rock
rising immediately to the East of it. As soon as camp was
reached at six o'clock the rain began to pour heavily again.
It plainly meant snow in the higher region and consequent
delay in my excursions. My diary entries for July 15th,
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502
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512
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522
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532
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542
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552
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563
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573
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582
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