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| 0075 |
Sand-Buried Ruins of Khotan : vol.1 |
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My stay at Duyan was prolonged in the pleasantest manner.
Early on the morning of June 9 Captain J. Manners Smith,
V.C., C.I.E., the Political Agent of Gilgit and the adjacent
hill tracts, on his return from a shooting excursion, came to
see me and kindly invited me to spend the day in his camp.
I was most glad to accept the hospitality of the distinguished
officer, then acting as "Warden of the Marches" for the
mountain region I was about to traverse; and after despatching
my party ahead, soon found myself riding on one of his hill
ponies up to the mountain-side occupied by his tents. It was
a charming spot on a little shoulder of the fir-covered slope,
some 1,500 feet above the road, where the ground was car-
peted with wild violets, forget-me-nots, and other mountain
flowers, and where a bright little stream added to the attrac-
tions of the scene. Picturesque, indeed, it was with the
well-fitted hill tents of the Political Agent and the motley
crowd of his followers hailing from all parts of Gilgit, Chilas,
and Hunza.
In the amiable society of my host and Mrs. Manners Smith
I passed a day which I shall long remember for its varied
enjoyments. Anglo-Indian ladies know how to carry true
refinement into camp life even at the most distant points
of the Empire, and here Nature had surrounded the tasteful
comforts of a well-arranged camp with special glamour. The
hours I spent at this delightful spot fled only too fast.
Captain Manners Smith, who has been connected with the
political administration of this region for the last twelve
years, and whose Victoria Cross was earned at one of the
most striking incidents of its modern history, the storming
of the Hunza fastness beyond Nilth, knows these mountains
and their races better probably than any European.
What added to the interest of his varied communications
about the old customs and traditions of the people was the illus-
tration which his remarks received from the hillmen attending
his camp. The petty headmen from the valleys towards
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