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Sand-Buried Ruins of Khotan : vol.1 |
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changed situation has been accepted. Yet this population of
brave mountaineers, small as it is, has to struggle harder
than ever to maintain itself amidst these gorges bound by
rock and ice, now that the days of raiding are gone.
From Nilth onwards the road leads over a succession of
highly cultivated plateaus, separated by deep-cut glacier
ravines. Everywhere there were little clumps of fruit trees,
of which the mulberries were just ripening. The villages
which I passed were distinctly picturesque, being all enclosed
with walls of rough stone and square loopholed towers. Their
position, which is usually on the very edge of the plateau,
falling off in precipitous banks towards the river, also shows
that safety was a consideration. Old are these sites in all
probability, but the only remains of antiquity that I could see
or hear of above ground are those of a small Buddhist Stupa
or relic tower passed on the road close to the hamlet of Thol.
Built of solid masonry, it rises on a base of ten feet square to
a height of nearly twenty feet, and is remarkably well pre-
served. The only damage done is at the corner, where the
masonry of the base has been knocked off to save the detour
of a few feet to the road which passes by the side of the
monument. It is evident that even at so remote a spot the
"Public Works" of modern India involve the same danger to
ancient monuments which they have unfortunately proved
throughout the peninsula.
While the Nagir side of the valley shows a cheerful suc-
cession of villages, the opposite side, which belongs to Hunza,
is here for the most part a rocky waste. The difference is
easily accounted for by the increased supply of water which
Rakiposhi provides. Among the people of Nagir no marked
difference from the Dard type is noticeable. Shina, the
language of Gilgit, seems to be spoken in most of the lower
villages, though Burisheski, the language of Hunza, is also
understood. The latter has no apparent connection with
either the Indian or the Iranian family of languages, and
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