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| 0090 |
Sand-Buried Ruins of Khotan : vol.1 |
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east, reared its crown of ice and snow more imposingly than
ever, and without a speck of cloud or mist. To the north
mighty peaks, also above 25,000 feet in height, frown down
upon the valley, while eastwards I could see the range along
which my onward route was to lead. The two days which I
had saved by the double marches between Gilgit and Hunza,
were used for a short halt at Aliabad. I required it in
order to distribute my baggage into loads suitable for coolie
transport, and also to dispose of arrears of correspondence,
&c. Hunza, it is true, does not boast as yet of a post-office.
But a "Political Dak" connects it every second day with
Gilgit, and in view of the long journey before me it seemed
right to utilise to the full this last link of regular postal
communication.
The first morning brought the Mir's Wazir, who came to
assure me of the arrangements that had been made for the
onward journey. Wazir Humayun is no small personage in
the Hunza State, being the chief adviser and executive officer
of the Mir, which rank he holds by hereditary right. He is
a tall, well-built man of about fifty years, with an imposing
beard, and makes a striking appearance, even in the semi-
European costume he has chosen to adopt, evidently as a
mark of his progressive ideas. It must have been different
in former years, when the Wazir led Kanjuti raids into
Sarikol, Gilgit, and Baltistan. A pleasant fire lit up his
eyes as he talked to me of his expeditions to Tashkurghan and
into the Braldo Valley. Now that the days of fighting are
gone he evidently does his best to develop the internal re-
sources. It is no easy task, for the cultivable land is far too
limited to provide for the increase of population. Only by
elaborate irrigation can produce be wrung from the rock-
strewn slopes of the valley, and the long courses of 'kuls'
(water-channels) winding along the foot of the mountains
often in double and treble tiers, show how carefully the
available supply of water from the glacier-fed streams of the
side valleys has been utilised.
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