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| 0092 |
Sand-Buried Ruins of Khotan : vol.1 |
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otherwise be likely to give trouble, need fortunately not be
considered in Hunza. The people have been described by
those best qualified to judge, as thoroughly tractable and
obedient to constituted authority, and notwithstanding their
old raiding reputation, this description seems fully justified.
On the second day of my stay at Aliabad I received the
visit of the Mir of Hunza, Muhammad Nazim, who had been
installed after the occupation in 1891. He is a man of about
thirty-five, of open and manly bearing, and evidently deserves
the reputation for intelligence and firmness which he enjoys.
Our conversation, carried on in Persian, turned naturally
more to the old conditions of the country than to the reforms
about which the Mir is said to be energetic. Road-making,
vaccination, and similar Western improvements seem strange
as objects of genuine interest in the representative of a
family for which intrigue and murder were down to the
present generation the main incidents of life. This trans-
formation in its rapidity and evident thoroughness is a
striking proof of the results of the pax britannica.
Through the Wazir I had engaged two Hunza levies who
had been on the Pamir before, to accompany my camp to
Sarikol as guides. Muhammad Rafi, the commandant of the
Mir's bodyguard, was sent to organise and supervise the
transport, represented by sixty coolies. Swelled by these
numbers my caravan looked alarmingly large as it moved off
on the morning of June 20th. The first march was only a
short one, to Baltit, the chief place of Hunza, and the Mir's
residence. Rising on a cliff from an expanse of terraced fields
and orchards, the Castle of Baltit looks imposing enough with
its high walls and towers. Below it, closely packed on the
hillside, are the rubble-built houses, some two hundred in
number, of the Hunza capital. The newly built bungalow
which received me lies immediately below the fine polo
ground, offering a cheerful sight with its green turf and shady
Chinar trees. On the opposite southern side of the valley
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582
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