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| 0119 |
Sand-Buried Ruins of Khotan : vol.1 |
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bash from ancient times as a great natural thoroughfare over
the "Roof of the World." Here my newly-found companion
left me in order to hurry onwards to Tashkurghan. He had
been fitted out with what was needed in the way of tinned
provisions, &c., in order to take him comfortably through to
Kashgar; and M. Sher Muhammad, for whom I gave him a
letter, subsequently secured for him the change of animals
and the passport of the local Chinese commandant which were
required for his further progress.
My way on July 6th lay from Ghujakbai first over a broad
alluvial plateau which stretches for miles up the valley
of the stream coming from the Khunjerab Pass. As it
approaches the Taghdumbash Darya it spreads out fan-wise,
and resembles most closely the 'Karewa' plateaus which form
so characteristic a feature of the Kashmir Valley. A ride of
some five miles across this barren waste brought me to
Dafdar, where, near a couple of 'Ak-nis,' I found a
picturesque assembly of Wakhis and Kirghiz awaiting me.
The latter had come from Pisling, a small settlement across
the river. By the side of their stalwart and handsome Wakhi
neighbours they looked somewhat insignificant; but their
cheerful expression and joviality amply made up for the defects
of stature and countenance. A short distance below Dafdar
I came upon the first traces of cultivation. On the scattered
fields which little channels from a side stream irrigate, the
crops of oats and barley have evidently a hard struggle. All
the same it was a pleasure to meet again with this evidence
of permanent habitation. It is only during the last ten
years that the latter has become possible, since Kanjuti raids
have ceased and order has been secured for the valley.
It was a novel sensation, after the weeks passed in narrow
gorges and amidst snow-covered heights, to ride along these
broad, smiling slopes gently descending from the foot of the
mountains. Wherever water reaches them from the side
valleys, the ground was covered with a carpet of flowers and
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